Dog Harness Sizing Guide, the key to getting it right

As I have mentioned before, the safety and comfort of your dog is of the utmost importance.

When choosing your harness you will be taking into account the breed, the size, how much hair he or she has, the body type, the personality and which type of harness they require.

If your dog is a flat faced breed such as a Pug (see Medium Sized Dogs in the guide) you will need to take into consideration the design needs to protect your loved one from excess pressure on the neck and chest. An easy walk harness is handy for a Dog that pulls and a front clip harness is best for bigger dogs. There certainly is a huge market for harnesses and many different designs.

So, when purchasing your harness one of the most important things to consider is getting the right size. If you are buying online and you are unsure of the size there are many adjustable harnesses that are available. There are many choices at and

Below you will find a few tips on sizing to help you in your choice.

Remember, snug and comfort fit

Very much like the collars a two finger snug fit is a good measure of comfort. Also, measure your pooch with a piece of string or a soft tape measure.

The GIRTH is measured as the widest part of your dog’s chest.

XX SMALL (Up to 2.5 Kg)

Common Breeds, Chihuahua and Teacup terrier

Girth 20 – 25 Cms

Recommeneded Lead Width 8 mm


X SMALL (2.5 – 5 Kg)


Common Breeds, Miniature Dachshund, Pomeranian Maltese, Yorkshire Terrier, Toy Poodle

Girth 23 – 40 Cms

Recommended Lead Width 10 mm


SMALL (5-11 Kg)


Common Breeds, Pekingese, Miniature Schnauzer, Scottish Terrier, Pug

Girth 33 – 60 Cms

Recommeneded Lead Width 16 mm


MEDIUM (Up to 25 Kg)


Common Breeds, Border Collie, Beagle, English and French Bulldogs

Girth 45 – 75 Cms

Recommended Lead Width 19 mm


LARGE (Up to 35 Kg)


Common Breeds, Dalmation, Boxer, Labrador, Weimaraner, Golden Retriever

Girth 55 – 100 Cms

Recommended Lead Width 25 mm and 2 ply for extra strength


X-Large (35 Kg +)


Common Breeds, Mastiff, Saint Bernard, Great Dane

Girth 70 – 115 Cms

Recommended Lead Width 38 mm and 2 ply for extra strength





So just like Leads and Collars there is more to buying a Harness than just looking for the prettiest thing hanging in a pet shop. As always comfort and safety are paramount.

If you have any comments or feedback please feel free to drop me a line.


Dog Collar Sizing Guide, a very Important Aspect.

I have certainly been in this situation where I am looking forward to my new best friend coming home and I am out buying everything he or she will need. OK, I have a smart new bed, new food bowls, more toys than they will ever play with and I need a nice lead and collar. Hmmm so what size collar is he ? Is there a dog collar sizing guide? How wide does it need to be ? What does it need to be made of ? Oh dear this is getting complicated.

So here are a few tips to help you make the right choice. There are hundreds to choose from at and

A Dog Collar Should be a Snug Fit

When choosing the right collar you should ensure that two fingers fit snugly between the dog’s neck and their collar. You can measure by using a flexible soft tape measure or by using a piece of string and then putting it beside a ruler or tape measure.

XX SMALL (Up to 2.5 Kgs)

Common Breeds, Chihuahua and Teacup Yorkshire Terrier

Neck 15 – 20 Cms

Recommended Lead Width 8 mm

X SMALL (2.5 – 5 Kgs)

Neck 20 – 30 Cms

Recommended Lead Width 10 mm

SMALL (5 – 11 Kgs)

Neck 25 – 35 Cms

Recommended Lead Width 16 mm                                                            

MEDIUM (Up to 25 Kgs)

Neck 35 – 50 Cms

Recommended Lead Width 19 mm

LARGE (Up to 35 Kgs)

Neck 40 – 65 Cms

Recommended Lead Width 25mm and 2 ply for extra strength

X-LARGE (35 Kgs +)

Common Breeds, Mastiff, Saint Bernard, Great Dane

Neck 60 – 75 Cms

Recommended Lead Width 38 mm and 2 ply for extra strength

Collar Width

Not only should you be choosing the right length collar but also the correct width. There is no point in having a flimsy long thin collar on a large dog. Npt only is it likely to break if he pulls but also it would cause a lot of pain and discomfort by cutting into its neck.

Recommended sizes are below.

X SMALL (2.5 – 5 Kgs)

Neck 20 – 30 Cms

Collar Width 20 mm

SMALL (5 – 11 Kgs)

Neck 25 – 35 Cms

Collar Width 20 mm

MEDIUM (Up to 25 Kgs)

Neck 35 – 50 Cms

Collar Width 25 – 40 mm

LARGE (Up to 35 Kgs)

Neck 40 – 65 Cms

Collar Width 25 – 40 mm


Measuring for Martingale Collars

If you own a Greyhound or similar breed you will need to measure three diameters to determine the correct size. Make sure you use a soft tape measure or piece of string and measure at points A, B and C.

A – This point needs to be adjustable so that it measures the largest part of the head so that a collar may be placed easily into position (C).

B – This shoes the correct position of the Martingale when under pressure to restrain.

C – The neck size where the collar is relaxed.

One of the best places to buy one of these is or


So as you can see there is more to buying the correct collar and lead than just popping to your local pet store and buying any old thing.

If you have any comments or feedback please feel free to drop me a line.


Choosing the best lead and collar for training your dog

Pet shops and online stores are full of different types of leads / leashes and collars. As mentioned before they can be made from leather, nylon and other synthetic materials. I have lost count of the amount of tacky supposedly “designer” leads and collars there are out there covered in bling but these are hardly any use if you want to train your dog to walk confidently beside you. Besides, with some I’ve seen there’s a good chance the owner and dog will be blinded by the bling !!!!!

My personal favourite is the good old flat collar and lead. I have never had any problems with my dogs with one of these. However, our little Nelly is so small you just cannot use one of those. Therefore, we have to go for a Harness. I would hate to put any pressure on her trachea by making her wear a flat collar as she is so fragile.

When you are starting your training with a young dog the correct choice can make a huge difference in your training and walking. Just remember when you have a young dog it is a good idea to get a lead, collar or harness that is made of strong durable material as the youngsters do like a bit of a chew.

If your dog barks, a Martingale Collar is useful

The idea of these collars is to apply uniform pressure to the dog’s neck when they pull. As soon as the dog feels the artem-sapegin-Ugg-EIfzy0c-unsplash.jpgpressure and following constriction it is likely to heel. Be aware the pressure and constriction is only momentary. Due to the design they are made from high quality durable materials so not to cause discomfort for your dog.

These collars are also used on dogs who will try to back out of their collar and for dogs with small heads like Greyhounds.

Head Collars

Head collars are designed to prevent pulling, jumping and lunging. These are extremely popular in the dog training world but you must be sure it is fitted correctly. If in doubt ask a pro.

The collar acts like a horse halter as it fits around the dog’s snout and behind it is ears. This ensures that when your dog pulls the harness redirects it is head and helps him or her to stay calm and refrain from pulling again.

Good points to note are that there is no choking involved, it is fully adjustable for a comfortable fit and your dog can still drink, eat and bark away happily.

No Pull Dog Harness

These are designed to pull your dog to your side if they try to pull from you. The difference between these and standard harnesses is that these have the lead attachment on the front and to the side. Normal harnesses have the attachment on the back.

If your dog tries to pull away from you then the harness will apply pressure to your dog’s chest therefore preventing them pulling forward with their full weight.

As with the head collars there is no choking involved and due to the added padding it is extra comfortable for your dog.

Slip Rope Lead

I have mentioned these before as they are quick and easy to use. These can be a big advantage if you have a bouncy energetic puppy. They fit over your dog’s head and adjusts around it is neck. They are also very good for dog’s that are liable to try to pull if over it is head and run off without any notice. This is because they loop while tighten automatically.

My only words of advice for these are please be very careful if using these with puppies. Remember they are fragile and it can be very easy to over exert yourself if trying to calm down your puppy.


So here are just a handful of examples of the type of training leads and collars you can but for your dog. The list could go on and on. Remember, if you are shopping online, one lead may be called something in the UK but something completely different in the US. Try or

If you have any tips, great ideas, or comments, please drop me a line.


Dog Leads and Collars – Making the choice easier

So the day has come and you need to shop around for a lead and collar for your new puppy or dog. Ideally this should be prior to picking up your new pooch so it is a good idea to know the size you will require and what style you will need.

There are dozens of different types available, whether it is big dog collars you are after or small. What kind of lead will you need? what length will you need? Do you want a designer dog leads or dog leads for training? the list is endless.

I am therefore going to cover some more common dog leashes and collars (leashes are what our American cousins call a lead) and highlight some of our favourites here.

If you are still unsure about the choices available you can always speak to a Vet or Dog Trainer and they will be more than happy to point you in the right direction.

The Importance of choosing the correct Dog Leads and Collars

When choosing the correct lead and collar there are many things to take into consideration.

  1. Firstly the size of your dog. The collar must be comfortable for your dog (ideally two fingers slip easily between the collar and it is fur). Also, the lead must be the correct length for you when walking your dog. My wife and I have our own leads when walking our dogs, as I am nearly a foot taller than her. If I used her leads, then I would be tripping over the back paws of my dogs.
  2. The type of fur on your dog. If your dog has long fur and you decide to go for a harness, then that could become uncomfortable for him or her as there fur can get caught up in it.
  3. The attitude of your dog. If you find your dog is the kind that is prone to pulling a lot when walking then a harness is preferable. This is because if they pull whilst wearing a collar then there is a chance they could damage there neck.

We have found that with our two dogs, our little one Nelly always wears are a step-in harness as she is a bit unpredictable (and spoilt ha ha) so she can go wild around other dogs or just not want to walk at all. Our eldest and more tranquilo, Hudson, only wears a collar. He can also be a little wild at times but is normally very placid and just does what he is told. He is also scared of his own shadow so very unlikely to run after anyone or anything !!!!

Different types of Leads / Leashes

  1. The standard Flat Lead. These are the most common and are used for daily walks and basic training. They are normally between 1 – 2 metres in length and have a clasp at the end. They are manufactured in nylon, leather and even cotton or rubber. Within this group are the round, rope like material instead of flat. These are more and more popular and the type that we prefer. Because of varying lengths and thicknesses they work well with all dogs and provide good safety and control. Top tip, always choose a good brand and check the clasp is rigid and fit for purpose. Some cheaper brands have clasps that do not last very long and can deteriorate quickly.
  2. Bungee and stretchable rubber Leads. Personally I would AVOID these. Sold as reducing pulling issues with the dog they only go to reduce your training skills with your dog. A dog trainer will advise that a strong lead and confident owner is what is needed to train your dog.
  3. Retractable Leads. These are very popular as the owner can vary the length of the lead from about 1 meter to 15 metres all with the push of a button. The handle contains a mechanism that allows the owner to retract and release the lead as and when it is needed.  Unfortunately, they do have a downside, the cable can be easily tangled and the dog can wander off into the path of danger if you are not constantly aware. People and dogs have been seriously injured using these. However, in the hands of a confident and situationally aware owner, these can be an asset for the dog and the person.
  4. Slip Leads. These leads are also known as training leads and incorporate a lead and collar all in one. Basically they are a piece of rope with a small metal ring that provides a loop and acts as a collar. They are very easy to put on as all you do is place the loop over the head of your dog and it will tighten itself around it is neck. One thing to be wary of is ensuring it sits high on the dogs neck so to avoid choking your dog. A very handy lead but I personally wouldn’t use one long term, as it is a sensitive part of the neck, which prevents them pulling hard but could cause discomfort in the long run.
  5. Martingale Leads. These are not so common and are used more for quick walks when you are in a rush. Similar to the Slip Leads they look like the collar is attached to the lead with added adjustability. They are designed for dogs with smalller heads and thick necks like greyhounds. They are designed to stop your dog “backing out” of it is collar.
  6. Gentle Leader Leads / Head halti. These look more like a collar than a lead that loops around the dogs muzzle. They are designed so that if your dog pulls, then it is head is directed towards it is owner, and therefore redirecting it is attention to it is owner.
  7. Halti Harness. These are designed to control your dog from the front in a steering action. Usually these are

made from a comfortable material so as to not cause rubbing on the shoulders or the chest of your dog. As with other harnesses they must befitted correctly so as to not cause discomfort.




Different types of Collars

  1. The Standard Flat Collar. Made from the same materials and designed to go with the standard flat lead. They are the most common and what you will find in most pet stores. Certainly all dogs should be able to walk with a Flat Collar. The only issue is that some breeds e.g whippets and greyhounds can slip out of them. If that is the case then a Martingale Lead would be more appropriate. Always go for a good quality brand as they will last longer and give you piece of mind.
  2. Choke-chain Collar. Some dog trainers recommend these as an ideal collar for training. The downside is they must be used correctly for it to be safe and under the eye of a reputable trainer. Some breeds do respond well to them but short nosed dogs must never wear a choke-chain.
  3.  Prong / Pinch Collar. Another controversial collar like the one above. Some believe if it is used correctly then are a good training tool whereas others believe they are abusive. It is recommended that if you were to use one of these you should contact a qualified trainer beforehand. Again, if a trainer is needed and you should be supervised when using one, then I for one woild not recommend them.




  1. Back-Clip Harness. These are the most common and have a D Ring on the back. They are the easiest to use and the most comfortable for dogs. There are several styles and materials from which you can choose from all depending on the size of your dog. Ideally they are for small dogs. If your little one is boisterous then this harness makes your dog easier to control without putting any pressure on it is throat. The only downside is that they are not ideal for training due to not providing any directional control.
  2. Front-Clip Harness. These are not so common as the back clip harnesses but have a couple of distinct advantages. The harness stops the dog pulling as the directional movement when pulling is towards the owner not away from them. These are often preferred by professional trainers and are preferable for larger dogs. The only downsides are your dog is more likely to get tangled in the lead and they do have to be fitted correctly as an ill fitting harness can effect the gait of your dog. It would also prove to be uncomfortable for your dog if fitted incorrectly.
  3. Dual-Clip Harness. These provide the best of both worlds of front and back clip harnesses. Although the rear clip has the most control the front one comes into operation if your dog lunges or pulls. One slight downside is that due to the amount of padding and material used they can cause some chafing around the shoulders of your dag.
  4. Step-In Harness. Instead of being a full harness these rewuire you dog to literally step into the harness rather than have it placed over there head. They can be front back or both attachments. Some dogs find it difficult to step into them so have to be placed into position. Our little Nelly uses one all the time but even after three years she can’t step into it. She just stands on her back legs and waits to be put into position. Quite entertaining actually ha ha.

Safety Notes

As you can imagine there are so many different types of leads and collars out there that it can be difficult to choose the correct one. I always say if in doubt ask a professional. There is nothing to be embarassed about and that is what they are there for. At the end of the day it is the safety and happiness of your pet that is the most important.

There are several types of collar that are available that cause pain for your dog. Pronged Collars, Collars that spray liquids, electric shock and choke chains will all cause pain and stress for your dog. I do not believe any dog should be put into a stressful or painful situation so would never ever use one of those products.


As I have mentioned here are many types available and really it is down to the size and temperament of your dog. I hope my experiences and advice have helped with your choice. If you have any questions or advice I might find useful please feel free to drop me a line.

About David

David with Hudson and NellyHi everyone and welcome to mydogsleadsandcollars website. My family and I have had dogs pretty much most of my life. I grew up with a Husky called Helga who had a love hate relationship with the family cat. That was almost 50 years ago and now my wife Tracy and I have two fantastic rescue dogs called Nelly and Hudson.

Tracy is completely dog mad which is probably why she became a Dog Groomer. She owns a company called Million Hairs. Her whole life revolves around dogs so you can pretty much guess the pecking order in our household !!!!

What made me come up with this website?

Over the years we have gone through dozens of leads, collars and harnesses for our dogs. We have leads for when I’m walking them and shorter ones for when Tracy walks them. Tracy even insists on posh leads for when she goes to town ha ha.

One thing we have always found frustrating is the lack of choice. Whether its in a local pet shop or a pet superstore, there never seems to be the right length, the right colour or the appropriate style.

So what will this website achieve?

I have found over many years there are dozens of websites scattered all over the world where you can order leads, collars and harnesses etc. hours can be painfully wasted searching and rooting out your desired leads. I therefore decided through my experiences of online ordering to put together the best of the best to make life easier for my fellow dog lovers.

So have a look around and if you ever have anything to share in respect to purchasing dog leads and collars, I would love to hear it.

David with Nelly
David at sunset with Nelly


Founder of

If you ever need a hand or have any questions, feel free to leave them below and I will be more than happy to help you out.

All the best,